Vroom?

Jun. 13th, 2005 09:27 pm
denny: (RX wheel)
[personal profile] denny
After a lot of ringing around, reading forums, and exchanging of email and forum PMs with people, it seems that not only is Hayward Rotary by far the most recommended place to get my engine rebuilt, but they're also going to get it done sooner than anyone else can. Also, almost everyone who was advertising significantly lower prices than them for a rebuild has turned out to be, in fact, lying. When phoned and asked, they quoted prices in the same general region as Hayward's.

So, my options are as follows:

(1) Basic rebuild only.
Returns the engine to good original condition.
Price: £3250

(all prices are inclusive of VAT etc) (which also endeared him to me - I hate mechanics who quote excluding VAT)

(2) Rebuild with mild porting.
This returns the engine to good condition, with some preparation work done for future perfomance boosts - stuff which it is sensible to get done during a rebuild if you're the kind of person who is likely to want to get it done at all.
Price: £3550

(3) Rebuild with mild porting and de-cat downpipe.
As (2), plus a downpipe with no catalytic convertor in it. The front cat was only fitted to the UK model, and is something of an afterthought/nasty bodge. It releases considerable heat while doing its job, and this occurs directly under the engine bay - not a good place for extra heat. This option was strongly recommended by a few people on the owner's club forums, both as a mild performance booster, and as a way to save the engine from unnecessary heat-related stress. Hayward didn't actually have a price to hand for the downpipe, but a bit of googling suggests it'll be itro £150, so let's say...
Price: £3700

(4) Rebuild with mild porting, full de-cat exhaust, and programmable ECU with appropriate mapping.
Whee. This involves replacing the whole exhaust with one whose designers had far more interest in performance than emissions regulations (although actually I'm told they still pass the MoT emissions tests very easily with these exhausts on them, so *shrug*). To go with this and the porting, a programmable ECU* will be fitted, to enable Hayward to tune the engine to match all the new components/configuration properly. The predicted outcome of this option is to take the engine power from Mazda's quoted 237bhp to somewhere in the region of 300bhp. Which is quite a difference. The price includes both initial tuning when the engine is rebuilt, and a second fine-tuning session once the engine has been run in.
Price: £4760

* Electronic Control Unit - the magic box that tells the fuel injection and other gubbins what to do and when to do it

Breakdown:
3250 - basic rebuild
 300 - porting
~150 - de-cat downpipe
 110 - de-cat centre pipe
 250 - backbox
 500 - ECU
 350 - mapping/tuning
====
4760 TOTAL (inc)


Soooooo... what am I going to do? Silly question really ;)

No, actually I did think about it for quite a while. After all, the car is not exactly slow in original form, and when considered in isolation, 1500 quid is a lot of money that I could do various fun things with.

However, if I go with the standard rebuild, I will basically have paid out 'more than three thousand pounds', only to get back to where I was last week... a complete loss, emotionally speaking. If I go with the everything-and-chips option (no pun intended), I will be poorer, but emotionally happier, having spent 'less than five thousand pounds' on gaining a very serious performance boost for my car.

On the whole I'd rather have spent 5 grand (or 3 grand) on shiny things of a less engine-related nature... but as I've got to spend a lot of money in that area anyway, I think I'd feel better about spending the extra and actually getting something more out of it at the end than I had before this all happened. It will also give the car a better resale value if I can show that it was rebuilt and tuned by this particular guy - he's a very respected name in the rotary engine world. Spending this much money on something I'm not that interested in still sucks though.

Rough time estimate for getting the work done was 'two to three weeks', and he can't take it in until the end of this week at the earliest, so I'm not going to have my car back until the start of next month if all goes well, or the middle of next month if all goes not quite so well. So that still sucks too.

On the whole, it looks like my best alternative though. Vroom?

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 10:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dennyd.livejournal.com
*hugs teh kitty for making me smile*

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 09:37 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] djlongfella.livejournal.com
I do not doubt you when you say the car is fast enough, I also understand fully the " emotional cost " of paying ( x ) grand to end up where you were last week...de catting a good move,but believe if you go plan 4 then you may , when selling give the impression the car has been thrashed and therefore not be able to sell it for the correct price, I know you are not a " Boy Racer " and that you respect the value and quality of your performance car, but a potential buyer will see a young guy with a modded car, and figure " it's been thrashed "..just my humble opinion of course, and certainly not wanting to rain on your parade, but I say plan 3...but it's easy for me to say, it's not my car...

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 09:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dennyd.livejournal.com
It's a good point, but I think it's fairly well-accepted that all RX-7s are thrashed by their owners... you just don't buy a car that fast and drive it slowly all the time :)

As I said, the fact that I got it rebuilt and tuned by a respected name in the field should actually count in its favour somewhat when it comes to time to sell... the average RX-7 purchaser is likely to be interested in its mods, not scared off by them.

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 10:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xraycb.livejournal.com
Usually modifying a car reduces it's value because of increased insurance premiums, although this might not be the case for a specialist performance car. You should check with your insurers, as you do have to declare any modifications for your insurance to be valid.

Just a random comment from somebody passing through...

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-14 08:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dennyd.livejournal.com
Yeah, the new wheels already hiked my premiums by 100 quid, and I won't be surprised if I have to change insurers after having this lot done, as the current lot aren't a modified car specialist.

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-14 10:51 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] azekeil.livejournal.com
Yeah, I'd check the insurance premium hike (do make a LOT of calls) and also ask about on the forums about how reliability is affected with the mods you're thinking of...

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 11:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] djlongfella.livejournal.com
Agreed, I think the fact they ask you back for the second fine tune is testiment to their commitment, dodgey operators would fit the toys and send you out the door...

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 11:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] djlongfella.livejournal.com
Was actually badly trying to differentuate between , thrashed and abused and, driven well and maintained...

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 10:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dennyd.livejournal.com
Now this one (http://www.evilrotors.com/japanese_cars_for_sale/veilside-car/) (635bhp) might make people a little nervous :-P

(no subject)

Date: 2005-06-13 11:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] djlongfella.livejournal.com
You're doing it again, with the shiney ness and the pictures, and rotory, and the fastness...stop it...:)

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